Chicken Coop Plans
April 15, 2009 by admin
Filed under Urban Homestead
Get started building your chicken coop NOW!
The plans are simple, straightforward, and almost guarantee your success. You will be proud of your chiclken coop and your you chickens will be healthy and happy.
The e-book contains all of the following information:
- Plans and instruction to build a medium sized coop for a small fraction of the cost of buying one.
- Directions and plans to build a premium, taj mahal chicken coop that is easy to clean and automatically collects you eggs.
- Step by step instructions to build your own chicken tractor portable chicken coop that is easy to clean and move to provide nutritious fertilizer for your garden.
All of the plans are full color and drawn to scale.
But wait, the book doesn’t just include plans, it tells you how to plan for your chickens and pick the right breed.
What are the 6 things you must have before you even think about building a coop?
How can you easily extend your coop into a free-range style enclosure?
Which breed of chicken for your climate, space, and egg production goals?
The book walks you through how to set-up your building site and select your materials that will make building quick, easy, and inexpensive. You will learn how to easily breed chickens yourself and develop your own growing flock.
Do you know the 9 daily, monthly and yearly chores you must perform to keep your chickens healthy, happy and laying eggs? You will when you are done with Building a Chicken Coop!
You’ll also learn how to protect your coop from predators such as foxes, coyotes, cats, hawks and other common varmints.
You’ll learn the 8 foods not to feed your chickens how to care for commons chicken ailment…and much much more.
Don’t wait, order yours today.
CLICK HERE NOW TO ORDER YOUR COPY!
If you order now you get free gifts including
- How to Find Inexpensive Materials for Building!
- How to Control the Environment of Your Chickens for Maximum Health and Production!
- Step by Step Instruction for Builing Free NEst Boxes..and
- Where to Position Your Coop For Best Health and Production!
All you have to do to get started is CLICK HERE
All the books are available for immediate download. No more worrying about losing pages, getting them dirty, or your dog eating them. Just print more!
If you want to keep chicken in your back yard you must read this book. Whether you have a small yard made of cement or oodles of space to play with Building a Chicken Coop is invaluable in building the right chicken coop. Bill Keene focuses on your being absolutely prepared before the first chicken scratches in your yard! If you follow the directions in the book, you will have the right equipment, to care for the right species, living in the right coop, located in the perfect spot. It’s broken down into easy, actionable steps to ensure your maximum success! The full color, scale plans for the chicken coops are well thought out and easy to follow. He includes materials lists and required tools as well. Bill Keene is also a good steward of the planet including advice on how to reuse and recycle materials to keep the cost of your perfect chicken coop down. Not only does he tell you how to build a home for your flock, Bill informs and educates about proper chicken care so that you will be a responsible caretaker for you flock. Don’t wait, download your copy now and get started on your chicken coop. Healthy, tasty eggs are but a click a away. John – Amateur Chicken Farmer – Tennessee, USA
There is even of 60 Day Money Back Guarantee…What are you waiting for…CLICK NOW
Top Ten Ways to Save Money with an Organic Vegetable Garden
April 12, 2009 by admin
Filed under Knowledge Drop, Urban Homestead
1. Do it yourself: Don’t pay someone else to dig, plant, cut and prune for you. In addition to saving money, the exercise will make your feel better. If working in the yard makes you grown – get over it.
2. Set your mower deck higher: set it at its highest setting (or at lease higher than you do now. Don’t bag..leave the clippings where they fall. You save on fertilizer and your lawn will look better. Clippings don’t cause thatch, fertilizer does.
3. Make your own weed killer: vinegar, salt and dish soap, evidently boiling water kills weeds, and gin dish soap and vinegar. Hit google…or this link: Hit Me! Evidently the vinegar kills the weed, salt keeps it from growing back, and soap sticks to the weed so the first two things can work. Amounts vary from recipe to recipe (or is it a formulation…again I digress) and do not appear to be very important. As the salt sticks around for a bit, you need to wait a little before replanting. [Didn't someone sale fields in the bible or something?]
4. Get your tools at yard sales and use hand tools. Never pay retail. Good tools last forever. Power tools use gas, stink, pollute your yard and the world at large, and leave you smelling like gasoline after you are done. Oh yeah, they are expensive too.
5. Compost. Make your own dirt. Don’t buy a bin, you don’t need one. Dig a hole. Make a pile. If you just pile up everything that was once once alive [and not an animal] that is left over from your kitchen, you will have compost in six to nine months. If you follow the rules and mix your compose and turn it, you can have some super dirt in two to three months.
6. Make your own mulch. Shred your leaves with you lawn mower. Contact a tree service and ask for chipped branches. You may get them for free since you will save the company the dumping fee. Be prepared though, it doesn’t look as nice as bought mulch but it works great on your garden and saves money. You may also consider stones or pebbles, the initial outlay is higher but they don’t have to be replaced. A truck load of local stone costs less than you think.
7. Divide plants, share seedlings, ask you neighbors. Talk to you neighbors and see if they have any plants that need dividing. Join a garden club or plant exchange. Look for sale by garden clubs and botanical gardens.
8. Watering. Get a rain barrel. You don’t need some expensive system. Contact your water department or look for recycled plastic barrels. Use soaker hoses in your beds and garden; you will use much less water. Water deeply once or twice per week. Daily, short watering make for shallow roots and unhealthy plants.
9. Grow Vegetables and Herbs. The saving will take to be realized but you can save a lot of money growing your own food. The savings will only increase over time. Especially if you follow the above tips. See my previous post for a calculator on gardening savings.
10. Cancel your cable and get outside in your yard.
The EPA and Pesticides
April 12, 2009 by admin
Filed under Knowledge Drop
According the to United States Environmental Protection Agency, there are over 20,000 pesticides containing 620 active ingredients on the market in the US. More than 1,000,000,000 (One billion) pounds of active ingredients in conventional pesticides are applied each year in the United States. Thats over three pounds for every man, woman, and child who is a citizen of the United States. That in itself is alarming. Even more alarming is the government’s information on the potential health effects of pesticides. I am quoting the EPA’s own FAQ here: “The health effects of pesticides depend on the type of pesticide. Some, such as the organophosphates and carbamates, affect the nervous system. Other may irritate the skin of eyes. Some pesticides may be carcinogens. Others may affect the hormone or endocrine system in the body.” Stay away from the commercially grown food! Save money and eat healthy and – grow your own organic food!!
The EPA is in charge of our safety from pesticides. They get a large helping hand from the manufacturers of the pesticides. The EPA is charged with setting maximum levels of pesticides likely to be found in food. That is not a typo, I took it straight from an EPA page…”maximum levels likely to be found in food”…not actually found in food, but likely to be found. “The EPA accomplishes this by requiring pesticide manufacturers to submit data that answer basic questions about what residues are present in foods and in what quantities.” The manufacturers submit data regarding the residues of pesticides found on crops grown in the field when applied using the highest rate allowed by the product label. So the manufacturer of the pesticide delivers the data to the EPA and the EPA decides on how much pesticide is okay for us to eat. I love the taste of orthophosphates in the morning! Do you trust the pesticide manufacturers with the safety of your food? If not, the only way to make sure that our food supply is safer is to grow you own organic food.
The EPA also requires a battery of toxicity tests in laboratory animals to determine a pesticide’s potential for causing adverse health effects, such as cancer, birth defects, and adverse effects on the nervous system or other organs. Tests are conducted for both short-term (acute) and long-term (chronic) toxicity. For chronic effects other than cancer, laboratory animals are exposed to different doses of a pesticide to determine the level at which no adverse effects occur. This level is divided by an uncertainty or “safety” factor (usually 100) to account for the uncertainty of extrapolating from laboratory animals to humans and for individual human differences in sensitivity. The resulting figure, termed the Reference Dose, is the level of exposure that EPA judges an individual could be exposed to on a daily basis for a lifetime with minimal probability of experiencing any adverse effect. [Quoted from EPA Factsheet].
So let me get this straight, the EPA finds a pesticide that makes us sick and then they decide how much of that we can eat. Who checks on the farms? Who checks at the grocery store? Anybody want some peanuts? I am not saying that the EPA is bad. They do a commendable job. I think that we should be surprised that there are not more serious health problems and outbreaks of food related illness;but how many chronic illnesses and “adverse” health effects are the cause of pesticide exposure over the course of a lifetime? Could neurological disorders be the result of exposure to organophosphates and carbamates? How would you know? If you grow your own food, you know exactly what was put on it. You know exactly what your children are eating! What if you could save money growing your own organic vegetables at home? You can! Read a book and go outside! Feed your children healthy food and lower your grocery bill. You can do it. You just have to go out in the yard and get started!
Organic Vegetable Gardening: A Few Words About Tomatoes
April 10, 2009 by admin
Filed under Knowledge Drop, Urban Homestead
Everybody loves tomatoes. And the taste best when picked from the vine, walked to the butcher block, sliced, and put on the homemade bread with lettuce, bacon, and mayonnaise. My mouth is watering at the thought. First we have to grow the tomato.
Tomatoes come in a numerous varieties, heirloom and hybrid. I just like to eat them. From grape sized and red to gigantic and purple, you can get tomatoes in a virtually unlimited array of colors and sizes. They all grow between three to four feet for you determinate varieties and seven to fifteen feet for your indeterminate varieties. All tomatoes need twenty-four to thirty six inches of space to spread out. If you use deep beds, you can plant a bit closer together and train the vines vertically. The majority of the roots are in the top eight inches of the soil with some fibrous spreading roots going four plus feet down. They like their soil to have a pH of 6 to 7.
Tomatoes love eight or more hours of full sun per day. They cannot tolerate frost and should be started indoors and transplanted to your garden after the last chance of frost. Where I live in Tennessee, that is tax day here in the US, April 15. Did I follow my own advice? Of course not! I planted early and had to cover my tomatoes because we had a frost. Some stakes and old packing blankets over the tomatoes brought them through just fine. They look great and are moving toward the sandwich as I write.
When you do plant your tomatoes, if in rows they should be 18 to 24 inches apart. If you use deep beds as I do, they go 12 inches apart and should be trained up a trellis. Tomatoes love water and should get one to one and half inches per week either from rain or watering. Apply compost or slow acting fertilizer in spring. Tomatoes are heavy feeders and require light supplements every couple of weeks throughout the growing season. Go easy with the nitrogen. You will be well served by spraying your plants with the liquid seaweed extract.
I have had trouble over the years with the tomato hornworm. You know you have them when you see holes in your leaves and black droppings in the foliage of your lovely tomato plant. If you spray your plant with water, the hornworms thrash about and let you know where they are. You will recognize them from the large (3 to 5 inches) , green, caterpillar appearance. The dead giveaway is the horn on their head. They are relatively easy to control by picking of early in the season. You can also dust with BT (bacillus thuringiensis). If the infestation is too awful, use pyrethrum twice, three days apart.
Whiteflies have been the bane of my existence on more than one occasion. The little bugger secrete honeydew that encourages fungus causing the plant to weaken, turn yellow, and die. So sad. You know you have them because your plants start to turn yellow and, when the plant is shaken, a flying could of dandruff flies around your tomato. Insecticidal soap will get rid of the pestilence. If that doesn’t work, use the pyrethrum twice, three days apart.
Hey, have fun and eat the delicious tomatoes. I know I can’t wait.
Proper Pruning Techniques: A Natural Way to Plant Health
April 7, 2009 by John
Filed under Urban Homestead





